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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Bright deep ruby. Vinous, complex aromas of cassis, roasted plum, spice, licorice, roast coffee, game and grilled bread. Voluminous yet currently rather inexpressive in the mouth; this has a depth and texture not shown in either the ’97 or ’98. Distinct notes of torrefaction in the mouth. Finishes very long, with well-buffered, ripe tannins.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Bright deep ruby. Vinous, complex aromas of cassis, roasted plum, spice, licorice, roast coffee, game and grilled bread. Voluminous yet currently rather inexpressive in the mouth; this has a depth and texture not shown in either the ’97 or ’98. Distinct notes of torrefaction in the mouth. Finishes very long, with well-buffered, ripe tannins.

New Releases from Spain (Sep 2012)

Deep ruby. Expressive aromas of candied cherry and cassis, with complicating notes of cola, anise and violet. Plush and seamless on the palate, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors and slow-building oak spice and licorice nuances. Closes on a smoky note, with spiciness and very good persistence. Pretty impressive for the year.

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2009 Sassicaia is unusually big, rich and opulent. Layers of fruit saturate the palate as the 2009 explodes from the glass with a heady mélange of dark berries, plums, menthol, licorice and new leather. This is an especially racy Sassicaia. Readers who enjoy the classicism of Sassicaia are likely to find the 2009 too…

Tuscany Part 2: The Tuscan Coast, More Supertuscans et al (Sep 2012)

(80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% cabernet franc): Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of blackberry, cassis, lead pencil, violet and minerals, complicated by a superripe note of crushed raspberry. Extremely primary and pure, offering sharply defined cassis, violet and mineral flavors of great class. The perfectly integrated acidity and a vibrant floral character from the…

2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

Deep ruby. Dark berries, dried cherry, anise and lavender on the highly perfumed nose. Offers intense cassis and bitter cherry flavors with sexy floral pastille and spicecake nuances. Aeration brings out a smoky quality that carries through the long, smooth, gently tannic finish. There’s 40% mourvedre here but I wouldn’t have guessed it based on…