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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Pungent, highly complex nose offers ginger, quinine, flowers and oyster shell. Bright, minerally and firm-edged, with exotic suggestions of mango, oran ge and pineapple. Wonderfully precise blanc de blancs, with terrific sweetness of fruit for a dry wine. Finishes long, juicy and nuanced, with a lingering spicy character. Delicious now but capable of gaining in…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(made from mostly grand cru chardonnay grown in Oger, Melsnil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Avize and some from premier cru Vertus; L138210-3002126): Vivid gold. Heady aromas of candied citrus fruits, flowers, truffle, gingerbread and iodine, with an intensely smoky overtone. Deep, pungent and palate-staining, with the orchard and pit fruit flavors reaching every corner of the palate and…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby-red. Initially mute nose opened slowly to reveal complex aromas of raspberry, plum, hot stones, tobacco, saddle leather and toffee. Really explodes on the palate; lush and minerally, with a compelling note of woodsmoke and firm acidity. Wonderful combination of sweetness and vibrancy. Finishes very long and subtle, with firm tannins.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red. Austere but highly complex nose offers dark plum, smoked meat, minerals, spices and earth, along with a whiff of cinders. Then almost surprisingly fat and sweet, with outstanding volume and solidity to its highly complex flavors of black cherry, brown spices, mocha, dried flowers and minerals. A huge wine for this cellar…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red. Austere but highly complex nose offers dark plum, smoked meat, minerals, spices and earth, along with a whiff of cinders. Then almost surprisingly fat and sweet, with outstanding volume and solidity to its highly complex flavors of black cherry, brown spices, mocha, dried flowers and minerals. A huge wine for this cellar…

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)

Full ruby-red. Sexy aromas of raspberry, cola, root beer and coconut. Thick, dense and concentrated, with exotic, slightly candied dark fruit, caramel, toasted coconut and mineral flavors nicely shaped by firm acids. Shows strong fruit and a major dose of oak on the powerful, backward finish. This can’t quite match the 1998 for sheer depth…