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Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined, slightly tertiary bouquet with light tobacco notes filtering through the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, quite peppery, fresh with a nicely structured finish. More Mazoyères than Charmes, this coheres beautifully in the glass and develops a seductive velvety texture. Tasted blind at…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has quite a mineral-driven bouquet, a little more austere than others I have tasted, but more terroir-expressive. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, sweet and generous. There’s a lot of sucrosity on the finish, though offset by the acidity. Very seductive.

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru is another of the more expressive wines in the range. It opens with striking mid-palate pliancy and also possesses a level of inner sweetness the other wines don’t have, and yet there is plenty of the tannic clout that defines the Richebourg as well. Time in the glass allows…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 6 and 7 at 34hl/ha and bottled between March 25 and April 24. As Aubert de Villaine had noted earlier, this is a more introverted La Tâche that bided its time in the glass. The fruit is slightly darker than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, with the addition…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s (Jun 2022)

The 2019 Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru picks up where the Grands Echézeaux leaves off. What a wine! Complete and beautifully resonant, the Romanée St. Vivant offers up copious dark fruit intermingled with dried herbs, lavender, graphite and coffee. It’s a rich, dramatic Romanée St. Vivant that will reward decades of cellaring. In most years,…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru was harvested on September 21 at 27hl/ha. It has a very typical nose for this appellation, offering opulent macerated black cherries, boysenberry and violet aromas. There are very faint scents of more exotic fruit, fig and peppermint in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a velvety texture, and lightly…