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Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Light gold. Vibrant, tangy aromas of apple, pear, white peach and minerals. Wound tight right now, only reluctantly offering up flavors of fresh orchard fruits, herbs and pepper. Finishes zesty and long. Seems less deep than the 1997 bottling; is this just in a sullen, youthful stage?

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Saturated violet. A deeply perfumed bouquet displays ripe black and blue fruits, exotic spices, potpourri and incense that are enlivened by a smoky mineral topnote. Offers alluringly sweet, penetrating cherry, blueberry, violet floral pastille and spicecake flavors show impressive focus and vivacity for their brawn. The floral and spice notes come back emphatically on the…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Péby Faugères is fabulous, just as it was from barrel. Silky, ripe and flamboyant, the 2018 is a terrific example of modern Saint-Émilion at its very best. Blackberry jam, chocolate, spice, new leather and licorice all meld together as the 2018 starts to flesh out. The 2018 is an undeniably sexy wine. Cellar…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Peby-Faugeres has a gorgeous bouquet of opulent boysenberry, maraschino cherry, fig and violets scents, almost identical to what I observed in barrel. Thankfully, it has retained the delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, sweet and candied yet poised. Slightly granular in texture, it delivers a surfeit of black cherry…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Pavie-Decesse is compelling. Silky and voluptuous, it opens with a rush of inky red/purplish fruit, rose petal, lavender, spice and mocha. There is terrific brightness and plenty of energy, but the luxuriousness of the fruit wins the day. I imagine the 2020 will drink well with only a few years in bottle.

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Pavie Decesse was picked on September 23, the same day as Perse’s Bellevue-Mondotte, at just 17hl/ha, and matured in 80% new oak, the final blend to be made at bottling. This is rich and opulent on the nose, which delivers intense black cherries, raspberry coulis, blueberry and blood orange scents; the new oak…