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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux has a very pure bouquet with blackberry, raspberry coulis, cedar and light violet aromas, quite intense and graining power in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly powdery tannin. The acidity is very well judged, a completely harmonious Pavillon Rouge with just the right amount of spice…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 67% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, and 4% petit verdot; represents 41% of the total estate production, which is 10% less than usual) Bright ruby. Knockout nose melds violet, red cherry, milk chocolate and menthol. Wonderfully concentrated and primary, with a soft texture and captivating inner-mouth perfume to the red cherry and mineral…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

So far I have tasted two bottles of the 2011 Comtes de Champagne. The first was strongly vegetal, with angular contours and virtually no fruit; the second was unyielding and compact, with no mid-palate and no finish to speak of. To say the 2011 is far off the mark would be a massive understatement. Perhaps,…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2011 Comtes de Champagne remains a challenging wine. Short, compact and lacking in complexity, the 2011 just doesn’t have that much to offer. On a more positive note, there’s good freshness and fewer of the vegetal notes I saw a few years ago. This is the best showing yet for the 2011.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Pale color. Youthful aromas of lemon, quince, pear, toast, spice, chalk and red berries. Big, sweet and seamless, if a bit clenched in the early going. A powerful, very young wine whose fruit builds slowly in the mouth and explodes on the finish. A charry note contributes to its complexity. Possesses amazing depth of fruit,…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Roncicone shows the more ethereal side of Sangiovese in this vintage. Sweet red cherry, mint, crushed rocks, orange peel and rosewater lend notable aromatic brilliance. Deceptive in its mid-weight, translucent personality, the Roncicone delivers plenty of intensity.