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Vinous Table: Marea, New York, NY (Jul 2022)

The 1989 Haut-Brion is very, very good. All the telltale Haut-Brion signatures of dark fruit, minerals, herbs, gravel and spice are present, but this bottle is lacking the textural opulence and depth of the best examples. Readers who have had the 1989 know what an epic wine it usually is.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Haut-Brion remains one of the outstanding achievements of the decade, and it consistently flirts with perfection. I was fortunate to taste the wine three times over the space of six months, though this tasting note comes from a bottle poured at the château by Jean-Philippe Delmas – the first time I had ever…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby-red. Lower-toned aromas of boysenberry, mulberry, plum, tobacco, star anise and roasted oak. Vinous and rather tough in the mouth, with strong acid spine. This was harder to view than most ’96s on my recent tour. Finishes with rather tough tannins. In an awkward stage following the bottling last July.

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Medium red-ruby. Confectionary aromas of raspberry, cocoa powder, mocha and sexy oak; more evolved than either the ’99 or ’98, even considering its extra year of age. Fat, sweet and harmonious; offers lovely balance but just misses out on the density and depth of a great year. Finishes with firm but very suave tannins; this…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

The 2007 Mouton Rothschild is a gorgeous wine, especially within the context of the vintage. Open, expressive aromatics and forward fruit make the 2007 an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next two decades or so. Although the 2007 is not an epic Mouton, it is without question one of the best recent…