Archives: Product Reviews

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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Red-ruby. Blackcurrant, graphite and minerals on the nose. Sweet, fleshy and dense, with an impeccable sugar/acid balance. Strong mineral tones and firm acids. Finishes long and gripping, with excellent tannic spine and lift. A bit like the 2002 Les Forts de Latour but turned up a notch or two. But not quite as perfumed as…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Cos d’Estournel is polished, silky and gracious, just as it was from barrel. In this vintage, the Grand Vin is especially refined. The dark red cherry, plum, new leather, licorice, cedar, mocha and spice notes are all beautifully delineated. To be sure, the 2016 represents a decidedly laid-back style within the context of…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

In my last sighted review of the 2016 Cos d’Estournel, I wrote: "I suspect it will close down for a period in its youth." Perhaps it is already beginning to shut down, because though this wine was deeply impressive, it fell just a notch short of ethereal previous bottles, despite its "pixelated black fruit" on…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Good medium red. Raspberry, redcurrant and strong spicy oak on the nose. Densely packed but a bit youthfully rough today, with raspberry and spicy oak flavors framed by sound acidity and substantial dusty tannins. Plenty of breadth and energy here but this grand cru will need at least a couple more years to harmonize in…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Durfort-Vivens is powerful, earthy and exotic, all at the same time. Rich red fruit, iron, dried herbs, mocha, anise, cedar and pipe tobacco all open in the glass. Durfort-Vivens is a decidedly rustic, burly Margaux in 2005, but it has enough depth and overall stuffing to drink well for another decade or more.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full red-ruby. High-pitched aromas of black fruits, licorice and burnt cinders; quite primary and grapey. Moderately sweet and youthful, with noteworthy concentration to the currant and licorice flavors. Not yet complex, but there’s plenty of underlying structure here for aging.