Archives: Product Reviews

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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Pichon Baron has a rather slightly meaty, smoky bouquet, this bottle just a little more feral than the last. The palate is medium-bodied with gritty tannins, graphite and mint, rather hard towards the finish. I wonder if this is just past its peak? That said, it has an appealing correctness. Tasted at the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good ruby-red. Complex nose melds blackcurrant, minerals, graphite, tobacco and licorice. Densely packed and youthfully closed, but also lush and generous, with sweet flavors of currant, tobacco, earth and spices shaped by firm acids. As sweet as this is, it’s also very firmly structured and serious. Offers outstanding palate coverage on the back.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deep ruby-red. Cassis, blueberry, smoke, shoe polish and tobacco leaf on the nose, plus a hint of confiture Sweeter and denser than the ’97; quite Pauillac in style. Finishes with dusty, even tannins. Youthful and strong for this wine.

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Bright ruby-red. Roasted nuts, red berries, mocha, and a suggestion of smoky, meaty reduction. Fat and sweet in the mouth, with good volume and silky texture. Not especially complex but pliant and attractive. Finishes with big, dusty tannins and good length.

An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 2000 La Dominique is a wine that I thoroughly enjoyed out of barrel but never tasted in bottle. It still has a deep colour with little ageing on the rim. The bouquet is refined and focused, almost broody dark fruits that gradually unfurl: blackberry, briary, a touch of menthol and 5-spice. The palate is…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Medium ruby-red. Currant, mocha and tobacco leaf on the nose. Moderately sweet, silky and dense, with very good breadth and palate coverage. Showed a bit more inner-mouth energy than the Saint-Domingue tasted alongside it. Fairly intense flavors of redcurrant and tobacco carry through on the persistent, firmly tannic finish. A very good vintage for this…