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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Opaque inky purple. Aromas of blueberry, sweet plum and chocolate pudding are complicated by hints of wet earth and animal fur. Enters sweet and ripe, but shows very good grip and inner-palate energy to its black fruit and herbal flavors. This ultimately suave and smooth wine finishes with supple, broad tannins and sneaky length. Only…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Kirwan showed extremely well, mocking my previous lukewarm reaction. It has an attractive cedar and graphite infused bouquet, plenty of black fruit with touches of wild mint developing with aeration. This coalesces nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine thread of acidity, gentle grip with hints of…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2006 Gruaud Larose replicates the half-dozen or so previous encountered bottles. It has a straightforward light red berry nose, a little static but I would not say dilute. Perhaps you would have asked for more given the prestige of the château? The palate is medium-bodied with a savory, lightly spiced entry with clove and…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good deep red. Musky, gamey aromas of plum, dark chocolate, cocoa powder and roasted oak. Fat, plummy and lush, but with decent spine to give the wine shape. Sweet but not overly so, offering more breadth than depth. Finishes with dusty, horizontal tannins.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Very ripe aromas of pear, apple, cinnamon, mace, toast and honeysuckle. Large-scaled, rich and mouthfilling, with a flavor of toffee apple. This is thick with extract but can’t quite equal the best Grande Dame vintages for concentration and thrust. But still impeccably made, very rich Champagne.

Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

I am thrilled with the way the 2004 Comtes de Champagne continues to evolve in bottle. A few years ago, the 2004 was quite focused and linear, in the style of the vintage, but more recently, the wine has begun to fill out beautifully. The 2004 remains bright, with a full range of citrus, white…