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Le Miracle de Haut-Brion (Dec 2014)

A modern-day version of the epic 1959, the 1989 Haut-Brion is all about harmony. Fine, silky tannins and expressive aromatics are two of the signatures. Tobacco, cedar and anise add layers of nuance to the dark, mineral-inflected fruit. The 1989 has long been one of my favorite Haut-Brions. It is once again magnificent in this…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pontet-Canet is a heady, exotic wine. Inky dark fruit, mocha, chocolate, licorice, spice and tobacco are front and center. Readers will find an unabashedly opulent, full-throttle 2005 with quite a bit more oak influence and overall extraction than is the norm these days. Even so, the 2005 is a young, young wine with…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full ruby-red. Complex, enticing aromas of black raspberry, licorice, minerals, bitter chocolate, lead pencil and pungent cedar; just this side of exotic. Wonderfully silky, sweet and thick, with a powerful minerality framing the currant, graphite and spice flavors. This boasts superb inner-mouth energy and great length, with the full, ripe tannins totally enrobed by…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet les Folatières 1er Cru has an expressive bouquet with green apple, wet limestone and light kiwi fruit scents. This is nicely focused and has more energy than the Pucelles. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite poised and harmonious towards the finish that needs more mineralité. Maybe…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 1er Cru has an open, leafy bouquet, a little stemmy but charming, with wilted rose petal scents. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, and fresh though a bit rustic. Grippy toward the finish, displaying an attractive spiciness. Rough around the edges, relatively evolved, but still pleasing. Tasted blind at…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Ségla was tasted under two different closures. The first under cork, offers blackberry, briary and touches of violet on the quintessential Margaux nose that gains intensity with aeration. Very impressive. The palate is medium-bodied with fine boned tannins, superb depth and body with an energetic, very focused finish that leaves a longer spicy…