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Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Pale yellow-gold. Ripe, mineral-tinged orange, yellow plum and pear aromas, with an exotic floral note that expands in the glass. Minerally and energetic on the palate, with densely packed orchard and citrus fruit flavors that offer a suave interplay of depth and vivacity. The seamless, sappy finish features smoky minerals, a hint of honeysuckle and…

Champagne: The 2016 Summer Preview (Aug 2016)

The 2005 Clos des Goisses is easily one of the wines of what turned out to be a complicated vintage. Just beginning to show the early signs of aromatic complexity, the 2005 graces the palate with the essence of candied lemon, almonds, chamomile, apricot and wild herbs. The 2005 is not the most complex or…

Central Spain: Tempranillo and Beyond (Dec 2015)

Opaque ruby. Powerful, deeply pitched red and dark berry preserve, incense and floral pastille scents are enlivened by an intense mineral quality. Concentrated yet strikingly vibrant and focused on the palate, showing bitter cherry, black raspberry and vanilla flavors that spread out with air while maintaining urgency. An extremely long, sweet, penetrating finish features velvety,…

2009 Brunello di Montalcino: The Day of Reckoning (May 2014)

Wild herbs, sweet tobacco, sage, red cherries and fennel are some of the many notes that meld together in the 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Annata. Already quite soft in texture and nicely delineated in its flavors, the 2009 looks like a vintage that will drink well with minimum cellaring. This is one of the more…

Brunello di Montalcino 2009 and 2008 Riserva (Jul 2014)

Vivid full red. Red cherry, raspberry, violet, minerals and licorice on the pure, captivating nose. Penetrating, savory and sweet, with terrific energy and purity to the sappy red fruit and mineral flavors. The vibrant, pure finish is firm and gripping but not particularly tannic. Tasted four different times since January of this year: I scored…

Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

(80% tempranillo and 20% cabernet sauvignon; aged for 20 months in new and older French oak): Deep ruby. Potent cherry, blueberry and Indian spices on the deeply perfumed nose, with hints of violet and dark chocolate building in the glass. Large-scaled and mouthfilling, but with striking vivacity to its fleshy dark berry and floral pastille…