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2018 Brunello di Montalcino: The Rubik’s Cube Vintage (Dec 2022)

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolforte is understated in the glass, lifted and delicate, with white pepper, pretty rose and nuances of dried strawberry. This envelopes the palate with soft textures and soothingly ripe red fruits contrasted with savory spices and inner herbal tones. The 2018 lingers long, showing balsamic nuances and salted licorice, as…

Exploring Northern Rhône Whites (May 2020)

Pale yellow-gold. Deeply pitched, pungent lemon curd, white peach and pear nectar aromas are complicated by building floral, honey and smoky mineral flourishes. Rich yet surprisingly energetic in style, offering palate-staining orchard and pit fruit flavors that are sharpened by orange zest, mineral and candied ginger notes that build through the back half. Finishes impressively…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(21.5 h/h; 13% alcohol): Bright ruby-red with a hint of garnet. Enticing floral nose offers very pure raspberry and red cherry aromas, complicated by tobacco and bay leaf notes. Then sweet, dense and smooth in the mouth, with rich red cherry, plum and peppery flavors. Finishes with still chewy but noble tannins and a trace…

The A to Z of South Africa (Nov 2023)

The 2020 Vin de Constance, the usual Muscat de Frontignan, is matured 50% in Hungarian and French oak barrels for 18 months and then 18 months in foudres. There is 172g/L residual sugar this vintage, which is a little higher than usual. It has a pure bouquet with scents of wild honey, white peaches, nectarine,…

Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 The Chocolate Block had been bottled a month before my visit. The Grenache and Cinsault plus part of the Syrah comes from Boekenhoutskloof’s own vines and the remainder from purchased fruit. It undergoes whole berry fermentation and aged for 14 months in French barriques and two oak foudres. This has a much more…

Day by Day: South Africa in 2025 (Oct 2025)

The 2012 Vin de Constance was winemaker Matt Day’s maiden vintage. Now at 13 years old, it has a burnished amber hue. There are still those tangerines and mandarins on the nose, now with touches of stewed fig. Fine delineation. The palate is very well balanced with a viscous entry, intense pure honeyed fruit effortlessly…