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2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Montrose is not dissimilar to the sample I tasted from barrel two years earlier. It eschews the more complex and, one might say, “ambitious” aromatic profiles seen in recent years (for example, the spectacular 2020) and delivers a more streamlined version. Blackberry, crushed iris flower, graphite and light autumn leaf aromas become prettier…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright red-ruby. Cassis, black cherry, violet, licorice and herbs on the perfumed nose. Then a bit tart and tough in the mouth, with black fruit and licorice flavors accented by pungent pepper and aromatic herb nuances. Slightly gritty tannins clash with strong acidity on the finish, giving the wine a lightly sour edge and…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux has a lovely, open nose with more red than black fruit, cedar and undergrowth, touches of black pepper. Good vigour here. The palate is well balanced with sappy red fruit, though because of the vintage, it feels a little monotone and slightly underripe on the finish, doesn’t quite…

2015 Beaujolais: Monumental But Often Atypical (Dec 2017)

Deep vivid ruby. Mineral-accented blackberry, cherry and licorice aromas are complemented by a sexy floral nuance that gains strength with aeration. Juicy and concentrated yet lively as well, offering intense red and blue fruit and spicecake flavors that are supported and sharpened by a spine of zesty acidity. Sappy, appealingly sweet and extremely long on…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Good bright full red. Explosive aromas of flowers, minerals, smoky oak and underbrush. Tight and youthfully imploded in the mouth, and a bit hardened by the gas. This peppery, savory wine shows no easy sweetness today and finishes a bit disjointed, with somewhat tough tannins. Will this blossom with seven or eight years of cellaring?

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is drop-dead gorgeous, intensely fruit-focused yet finessed and complex, opening with masses of ripe black cherries, licorice and spice complicated by cedar shavings and a lifting hint of fresh mint. This sweeps across the palate with textures of pure silk, displaying a core of ripe raspberries guided by vibrant acidity…