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The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Very good deep red. Closer to the CSJ than to the CDB on the nose, offering terrific pungent lift to the aromas of black raspberry, rose petal and blood orange. Wonderfully sappy and pure, without any impression of weightiness to its saline flavors of raspberry, spices and white pepper. Utterly fine-grained, silky wine with great…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2013 Chambertin is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. Aristocratic in its bearing, the Chambertin is simply magnificent today. The overall impression is of a totally spherical wine that has no beginning and no end. Layers of flavor continue to open up in the glass in a sublime, textured…

2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The Lightness of Being (Mar 2025)

The 2012 Echézeaux Grand Cru was a potent, tightly wound wine when it was young. Its essential personality has not changed all that much since then! I am shocked to see how incisive the tannins still are. Once past that, the 2012 is deep, youthful and full of energy. At the outset, I was optimistic…

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2019 Barolo Cascina Nuova is bright, effusive and beautifully lifted, right out of the gate. Crushed flowers, dried herbs, sweet red cherry, cinnamon, spice and hard candy soar out of the glass. Bright and medium in body, with plenty of verve, the 2019 is an absolute delight. I very much like the energy here….

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux is actually a vintage that I have never tasted before. For me, this is a little more mature than the 2001, with black plum, loam and pressed flower scents of pastille-like purity. Like the 2001, this has certainly held up well. The palate is medium-bodied, fuller and more…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Perfumed, subtle aromas of dark berries, spices, cedar and lead pencil; unusually sophisticated for a second wine. Supple, dense and suave, with lovely layered texture and restrained sweetness. Very densely packed and serious for Pavillon Rouge, but with no loss of finesse. Finishes with chewy, ripe tannins and excellent length.