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Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

(this was a treat Mascarello pulled from cask at the end of my tasting): Medium red. Knockout nose showcases tangy red fruits, minerals and porcini. Conveys an impression of superb concentration and dusty extract, with the tactile solidity of the best young 2010s already coming through in spades. A wine of great length and potential….

2014 Chianti Classico: Better Late Than Never (Oct 2016)

The 2012 Cepparello is just as compelling as it has always been. Sweet, ample and generous from the outset, the 2012 shows all of its pedigree, even at this early stage. Radiant fruit and exquisite aromatics make a strong opening statement as the wine fleshes out in the glass. Ample, creamy and super-expressive, the 2012…

2013 Barolo: Sublime Finesse & Elegance (Feb 2017)

The 2012 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè soars out of the glass with remarkable precision, tension and energy. A brilliant wine, the 2012 is translucent, powerful and super-expressive. Freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries, mint and pine give the 2012 its sensual, inviting personality. Today, it is the wine’s pure nuance that truly stands out. This…

Central Tuscany – Maremma, Montepulciano, Carmignano and Beyond (Nov 2016)

The 2001 Vin Santo di Montepulciano Occhio di Pernice, made from 100% Sangiovese, exudes depth, creaminess and viscosity, even if it is not as extreme as some previous editions. Dark and intense in all of its elements, the 2001 offers up a compelling, almost intoxicatingly rich, mélange of leather, chocolate, dried herbs, tobacco, smoke and…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

Antinori’s 2010 Tignanello is stunning, as it has been since I started tasting the component wines in 2011. Firm yet sweet, silky tannins form the backbone for this gorgeous, vivid wine. Dark red cherries, plums, cloves, mint and sage inform a Tignanello that impresses for its delineation, nuance and power. Clean, saline notes support the…

Tuscany Part 2: The Tuscan Coast, More Supertuscans et al (Sep 2012)

(80% sangiovese, 15% cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc): Bright red-ruby. Ripe aromas of sweet red cherries macerated in alcohol, cedar, cinnamon and pepper. Suave and seamless, with soft, almost-overripe flavors of redcurrant jam, red plum syrup, stewed red plum and tobacco leaf. A very distinctive and much creamier than usual Tignanello, finishing with supple…