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California’s Central Coast: Better than Ever (Aug 2012)

The 2009 La Sangre de Jonata is very awkward at first, but gradually opens up to reveal huge fruit backed up by equally imposing, masculine tannin. If opened today the wine will require quite a bit of air. Ideally it is best left alone for several years. At this stage, the aromas and flavors are…

Annual Coverage of California’s Central Coast (Nov 2012)

(includes 1% viognier): Inky purple. Explosively aromatic bouquet evokes dark berry preserves and pungent flowers, along with allspice and star anise. Suave and seamless, with intense black raspberry, bitter chocolate, spicecake and espresso flavors. Really expands on the endless finish, which features suave, silky tannins and superb clarity.

A Quarter of a Century in Chile: A Vertical Tasting of Seña (Aug 2022)

The 2012 Seña is the product of a warm year combined with the peak of the overripe, oaky approach in style. A blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Carménère, 12% Merlot, 7% Malbec and 6% Petit Verdot aged for 22 months in two thirds new French barrels. Garnet red in hue. The sun and heat…

Chile’s New Releases: Growing Diversity and Rising Quality (Jun 2015)

Opaque ruby. Heady aromas of black raspberry, cedar, fresh tobacco, vanilla and floral oils. Juicy and expansive in the mouth, showing alluringly sweet cherry, dark berry and spicecake flavors and a hint of succulent herbs. This is displaying a lot of Bordeaux-like character. Shows excellent clarity and lift thanks to tangy acidity, which adds cut…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Pontet Canet has a precocious bouquet with blueberry, cassis, crushed violet and pastille-like fruit, perhaps more delineation than its peers. There’s a nice focus here. The palate is well balanced with finely-knit tannins, a sorbet-like freshness, lightly spiced with hints of bacon fat emanating from that notorious warm summer. With a brightness on…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2002 Lynch-Bages shows just a little bricking on the rim. The nose is initially reticent with earthy black fruit, cedar and tobacco, a bit conservative compared to its peers. The palate offers leafy black fruit mixed with sage and black pepper. This feels a little austere and a bit mean on the finish, though…