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Daniel Thomases on Tuscany (Jul 2000)

Full ruby. Nose dominated by tar, licorice and herbs, plus suggestions of bell pepper and asparagus; the fruit element seems less pronounced and sweet than usual. Solidly structured and continuous in the middle palate, with blackcurrant and plum flavors, but slightly rough and bitter on the finish. The firm tannins could use a bit more…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1995 Ornellaia (magnum) is remarkably fresher than the same wine from bottle. There is a warm, almost exotic quality to the luxurious, rich fruit. Sweet tobacco and licorice add further layers of nuance and flavor. In magnum the wine still has a few years left, but bottles are further along in their evolution and…

Brunello di Montalcino and Other Red Wines of Tuscany… (Jul 1998)

Medium ruby-garnet, not violet or purple. Evident new-oak vanilla, along with cherry, cassis, ripe plum and cedar aromas. Medium-full body. Has weight, good fruit and decent extract, but less than I expected from a fine vintage like 1995. Moderately concentrated berry, cassis and minerally flavors are suffused by toasty oak, which tends to add a…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Good medium reed. Ripe aromas of red fruits, tobacco, chocolate, smoke, leather and truffle. Densely packed, structured and backward, with complex, youthful flavors of cassis, lavender, minerals and game. Still unfolding. Finishes with superb persistence and tannic grip. A great year for quality and quantity, notes Duroux.

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)

Full ruby-red. Sexy aromas of raspberry, cola, root beer and coconut. Thick, dense and concentrated, with exotic, slightly candied dark fruit, caramel, toasted coconut and mineral flavors nicely shaped by firm acids. Shows strong fruit and a major dose of oak on the powerful, backward finish. This can’t quite match the 1998 for sheer depth…