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Vinous Table: The Sportsman, Kent, UK (Sep 2022)

Next came a 1970 Léoville Barton. Predating Anthony Barton, this was not an auspicious era for one of my favourite Saint-Julien estates. With rusty old nails on the nose and a touch of chlorophyll, this lacks the cohesion of its peers. The palate is better with decent weight, surprisingly sweet (maybe chaptalized?) fruit, nice balance,…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1976 Lafite-Rothschild has for many years been the surprise of an otherwise tricky vintage. This bottle replicated the one I opened back in November 2006. Mature in colour with a wide brick time, the bouquet is open-knit with Montecristos, graphite and dried herbs. The palate is medium-bodied and well balanced, perhaps having lost some…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1986 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of the standout wines of the decade, and served blind, this suggests that it might have the 1982 in its sights. In many ways, it is the twin brother of the Cabernet-driven 1996. It bolts out of the stable doors with intense blackberry and cedar aromas – pure…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1989 Lafite-Rothschild, a wine that I have had several times both from bottle and magnum, is a better wine than the 1990, although I wonder whether its best days are now behind it. There is noticeably more bricking on the rim compared directly with the succeeding vintage. I also notice a touch of VA…

Valdicava: Brunello di Montalcino 1988-2004 (Nov 2008)

The 1990 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano comes across as rather rustic. It is also a wine of contrasts in that elements of opulence and over-ripeness are accompanied by surprising freshness and vibrancy. Today it is hard to say how this curious inner tension will resolve itself, but at present it appears that…

Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013 (Aug 2022)

The 1991 Pichon-Lalande has an autumnal bouquet: roasted chestnut, smoke, loam and decaying leaves coming through. Not impactful, but this is quite elegant and full of charm. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple opening, and here, maybe the shortcomings of the growing season are more obvious since this is rather one-dimensional. Yet there is…