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Vinous Table: The River Café, London, UK (Oct 2021)

The 1998 Palmer showed extremely well. Featuring blackberry, cedar and a touch of black olive on the nose, this has evolved a little since I last tasted it, yet it remains wonderfully defined. The palate is supple and concentrated, with touches of clove and black pepper infusing the black fruit, and gentle grip on the…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Deep ruby-red. Dark berries, roasted nuts, mocha, espresso and bitter chocolate on the nose. Very concentrated and bright, with the flavors framed by firm tannic spine. Showing a bit more grip today than the ’99, but the ’99 may have more sweetness and density and possesses the stuffing to benefit from the elevage.

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Cantenac Brown was a stunner from barrel. Now in bottle, it has a vivacious bouquet highlighting blackberry, wild strawberry and cedar aromas, with hints of violet emerging over time. It shows wonderful delineation and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, fruit that is a little blacker than its peers, gentle grip,…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Cantenac Brown offers up copious dark fruit, chocolate, licorice, new leather and cloves. A wine of palpable volume and heft, the Cantenac Brown is a very big Margaux endowed with broad shoulders and plenty of volume. The tannins are large-scaled and imposing. I find the 2022 a bit tough in its overall feel,…

Keeping Everyone Happy: Southwold Bordeaux 2022

The 2022 Smith Haut-Lafitte has another very refined and sophisticated bouquet, with discreet touches of white pepper and sage that season that black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very well defined, with a dash of spice towards the peacock’s tail finish. Very satisfying and vying for the best Pessac-Léognan in the flight….

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Smith Haut Lafitte is silky, elegant and nuanced. It's all there. A wine of precision and class, the 2022 is so impressive. Refined, supple tannins wrap around a core of blue/purplish fruit, lavender, espresso and mocha. I find the 2022 a bit buttoned up today, but that is probably a very good thing…