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2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Good medium-deep red. Ripe aromas of raspberry, licorice and smoked meat, with deeper-pitched soil tones adding nuance. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, conveying an impression of huge volume without heaviness. Not showing its treble notes now but this expands in the mouth and explodes on the palate-staining finish. Seems already to be going into…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru, which had finished its malo in late spring, was actually still quite reduced on the nose. The palate is well balanced, but the 30% new oak will need a few more weeks to become fully integrated. After the harmonious Les Tessons, this was quite difficult to get a…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a very strict, correct bouquet, the crushed rock and green apple scents slowly unfolding in the glass. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, and honeyed in texture, showing a quite a bit of creamy/vanilla-y oak to be subsumed on the finish. Afford it three or four years…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, matured with 50% whole bunch, has a well-defined bouquet of dark berry fruit, white pepper and light orange peel scents, becoming more mineral-driven with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a tart entry, fine grip and a saline, lightly spiced finish that conveys a sense of joy….

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru comprises two-and-a-quarter barrels this year, one of them new. This is more promising than the debut last year, which consisted of just one new quarter-barrel. There is more balance, the wood more assimilated: cranberry jus, briar and touches of sous-bois are all beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has another precise bouquet with shimmering red fruit, the 75% whole bunches deftly assimilated and imparting a light spiciness. The palate is medium-bodied with a graphite-tinged entry. It’s quite strict at the beginning, but there’s real intensity. It translates the limestone soils to beautiful effect on the finish…