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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru has an intriguing bouquet in the sense that it eschews the flamboyance and opulence synonymous with this vineyard. There is still plenty of intense red fruit in situ, but it less ostentatious than other growers’ Suchots. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, a mélange of red and…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with dark berry fruit, Earl Grey and crushed stone, displaying impressive complexity for the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, quite bold with firm backbone, though I am missing the precision and Pinoté that might have warranted a higher score. Tasted…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright medium red. Less open-knit but higher-pitched on the nose than the Bonnes-Mares, conveying outstanding verve to the aromas of raspberry, crushed rock, flint and mint. Brilliantly delineated, stony wine with intense raspberry and spice flavors complemented by salty extract. Wonderfully pure red fruits and spices carry through the dynamic, intense finish, with the crushed-rock…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Musigny Grand Cru is being raised in used barrels this year – 1.75 of them, to be exact, the three-quarter-size one having previously held the entire 2016 vintage. Containing 90% whole bunch, this has a very precise, focused bouquet of mineral-infused red currant, cranberry and blackberry fruit that gains intensity with aeration. The…

Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Pure, precise aromas of lemon, butter and clove; strong impression of citricity. Dense, sweet and very rich, with powerful lemony acidity framing and carrying the fruit. Very tightly wrapped but obviously rich: the perfect formula for a vin de garde Very classy Meursault many years short of its peak drinkability. Should be long-lived.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Combottes 1er Cru was a little more closed on the nose compared to the other cuvées, gradually unfolding with dark berry fruit, crushed stone, briary and a touch of graphite. The palate is beautifully defined with fine-grain, pliant tannins, quite tensile from start to finish with a perfectly proportioned finish. Wonderful.