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Loire Reds: Beyond the Unicorn (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Les Mémoires is a dark, fruited wine with blackberry and flint notes. Light in body and delicate, with a belt of austerity, the 2022 could benefit from decanting. It’s a firm, taut style that holds the mouth like a vice. A Cabernet Franc with real pinosity that requires time due to the combination…

Loire Reds: Beyond the Unicorn (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Marginale is a round, welcoming broad style. The clay soils give mouthcoating tannins like melted chocolate akin to a good Pomerol. Of course, this is Cabernet Franc from the Loire with lifted florals, blackberries and raspberries. It is pure, elegant and finely textured with a powdery texture and long fragrant length similar to…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge has a lively brick bouquet with black cherries and raspberries. Fine delineation. The medium-bodied palate has a slightly candied entry and moderate depth with a slightly tart black cherry/citrus finish. Give it a year in bottle.

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Echézeaux En Orveau comes from a cool microclimate, the last before you reach Musigny, though here the vines face south rather than east on shallow soils. This has a pleasant bouquet, initially quite bashful but gaining intensity in the glass, with crushed stone infusing the dark berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, offering…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Dark red. Subdued, lightly herbal aromas of currant, blueberry, tobacco leaf, chocolate, menthol and shoe polish. Perfumed and penetrating, with a restrained sweetness and a slight herbal edge. Finishes youthfully dry, juicy and persistent. This very elegantly styled wine grew suppler with aeration, showing a flavor of bitter cherry and finish. Very Pauillac.

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Haut-Brion is an excellent wine. Despite its mid-weight structure, the 2021 possesses notable dynamic energy and layers of complexity that build with time in the glass. Scorched earth, leather, tobacco, incense, licorice and dried herbs are some of the many notes that open with aeration. The 2021 is a quiet, understated Haut-Brion, but…