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2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Haut-Brion has a very pure bouquet, quite complex with a mixture of blueberry and black cherry fruit, iris flower and violet, hints of sea spray in the background. This is more engaging than the 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, good fruit concentration considering the…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Musigny Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with red cherries, blackcurrant, touches of animal fur and black truffle – very complex and intense. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, wonderful depth and cohesion, the acidity perfectly judged. The 30-40% stems here lends a discrete peppery note on the finish to what is…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Carruades de Lafite graces the palate with dark red cherry, plum, spice and tobacco notes. A supple, accessible Pauillac, the 2013 is best enjoyed in its youth, before the fruit begins to fade. The Carruades is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Tasted twice.

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Vivid ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, licorice, pepper and minerals, plus a whiff of smoked meat. Sappy, racy and focused, with sharply delineated flavors of cherry and blackberry. Comes across as reserved today owing to an impression of bright acidity. Youthfully tight wine, finishing with very good purity and energy and a whiplash of dark…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Armand Rousseau flirts with perfection. There is stunning delineation on the nose. The precision and definition of the aromatics are like nothing else, revealing shimmering red berry fruit intermixed with rose petal and a hint of Morello cherry. The palate is a lattice of lace-like tannins, vibrating with…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good full red. Pure aromas of dark, wild raspberry, candied cherry, smoke, game and mint, all lifted by an ineffable floral perfume. Wonderfully rich, fat and voluminous, combining great sappy cut with an utterly spherical, silky texture (yes, my note says this is possible). The rising finish features great palate-staining length, a chewy impression of…