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Vinous Table: Côte, Guildford, UK (Mar 2023)

The 2013 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is a bottle earmarked for my vintage overview next year, but here was a chance to examine it over time. Intense on the nose, it has razor-sharp delineation and impressive focus, with scents of honeysuckle, lime, crushed stone and blood orange, completely delivering what you expect from…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Bienvenue, offering musky, slightly reduced scents of very ripe peach and grilled nuts. Sweet, large-scaled and powerful but youthfully laid-back today. More tannic than the Bienvenue but the firm finishing flavors of pear and minerals titillate the retronasal passage. Still a baby.

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

Bright, light yellow. Very reticent, nuanced nose combines pineapple, peach, menthol and stony iodiney minerality. Densely packed, chewy and mineral-driven; distinctly more classic than the Criots, with very sound acidity but little early sweetness. The tactile, stony, layered, very long finish reminded me of a Montrachet.

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Brght, deep red. Very pure, vibrant aromas of black cherry, dark berries and fresh herbs. Surprisingly pliant and round for young Clos Vougeot, with saline and spice notes adding interest to the black cherry and licorice flavors. Offers lovely restrained sweetness and balance. Finishes supple and long, with firm but ripe tannins and very good…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale, bright yellow. Buoyant aromas of yellow fruits. Fat, sweet and easygoing, if perhaps a bit obvious for Folatières. Carillon noted that the 2013s gained in finesse during their months in cuves but I find that this wine lacks the cru’s typical subtlety and floral lift. A touch phenolic on the back end.

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Good dark red. Enticing high-pitched perfume of red berries, flowers and minerals. Juicy, spicy and sharply delineated, delivering a lovely combination of energy and ripeness to its purple fruit and mineral flavors. A distinctly vibrant wine with terrific flavor intensity if a bit less power than the Combottes. But I prefer this more mineral style…