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2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. Ripe peach, menthol and spice aromas suggest a powerful wine. Concentrated, broad, smooth and sweet, with an element of gingery spice and firm acidity giving shape to the very ripe, savory peach and pineapple flavors and leavening the impression of early sucrosité. At once less fruity, less minerally and less refined than…

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. More feminine on the nose than the Valmur, offering aromas of citrus fruits, pear and white flowers plus a soupçon of oak spice. Very silky, seamless and refined but also shows terrific intensity and floral lift. Harmonious acidity leavens the density of this wine, giving it an almost weightless impression in the…

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

(vinified entirely in oak): Very pale yellow-green. Pungent scents of lime, flint and white pepper, plus hints of spicy oak, baked bread and butter that suggest a rounder style of wine than the Vaudésir. Indeed, this Valmur is large-scaled, broad, silky and full, with just enough acidity to maintain its shape. Still hiding more than…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(30% vendange entier): Medium red. Captivating aromas of strawberry, leather, tobacco and cinnamon lifted by a note of bergamot; conveys an impression of noble site-driven rusticity. Silky on entry, then penetrating and imploded in the middle, conveying excellent definition and lift to its firm-edged flavors of strawberry and crushed stone. I never would have picked…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(40% vendange entier; 70% new oak): Dark red with ruby highlights. Brooding, rather medicinal aromas of dark cherry and saline minerality; less floral than the Gevrey samples. Ripe and tactile for young Clos Vougeot but showing more dark chocolate and salty minerality in the early going than primary fruits. Finishes adamantly dry, with big, dusty…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(from two parcels, one 35 years old and the other more than 60): Dark red with ruby highlights. Inviting aromas of blueberry, blackberry, licorice and menthol. Quite sweet on entry, then a bit youthfully disjointed in the middle, with the flavors of black cherry and licorice firmed by a solid tannic spine. Quite tight, even…