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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very unforthcoming on the nose; opened to show a whiff of shoe polish. Also quite closed in on itself in the mouth; hints of black cherry and dark chocolate. Rather powerfully structured and tough to taste today, but conveys an impression of of excellent concentration. As I noted last year, the substantial tannins coat the…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Wild, meaty nose shows less primary fruit and more earth, smoke, camphor and tar. Bigger, broader and drier than the Falletto; begins quite closed, with a smoky, flinty minerality dominating, then opens with air to show sweeter dark cherry and currant fruit. This is seriously dense and full wine, at once large-scaled and elegant and…

2005 Barolo: A Dark Horse Emerges (Jul 2016)

Bruno Giacosa’s 2005 Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto is superb. A big, dramatic wine, the 2005 shows all the power and depth of Serralunga in its broad frame. A host of black cherry, smoke, licorice and tobacco notes envelop the palate as the 2005 gradually unfurls in the glass. Iron, lavender and dried flowers follow….

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru was the most reduced of the three Grand Crus that I tasted from barrel chez Raveneau. The palate has a lovely waxy texture, offering slightly herbaceous and peppery notes and touches of orange peel toward the persistent finish. This will put on a bit of weight through its…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

After the 2009 and 2010, the 2008 Mouton Rothschild comes across as a touch slender. Lavender, smoke, grilled herbs and licorice add the closing shades of nuance in this delightful, mid-weight Mouton. In 2008, the blend is 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot harvested between October 2 and 15. Two thousand eight is remembered as…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(a blend of 83% cabernet sauvignon and 17% merlot) Saturated purple-ruby. Pure, deep aromas of blackberry, cigar box and graphite, lifted by a delicate peppery note. Fresh balanced, scented and quite suave, with pure mineral, plum and redcurrant flavors. The slowly building, very long finish features ultra-smooth tannins and compelling subtle minerality. Yet another success…