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2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Deep ruby. Powerful, pungent aromas of kirsch, dark berries, smoky herbs and spicecake, with notes of black olive and tobacco coming on with air. Chewy, palate-staining dark fruit flavors are complicated by bitter chocolate, licorice and black cardamom. Acts like a 2005 today, with serious structure but also superb depth of powerful, densely packed fruit….

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022: Bring It On (Jun 2024)

The vibrant 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape bursts with pronounced spice box, menthol, tobacco, black plum, iodine, licorice, leather and crushed violets. Offering a vertical sensation on the full-bodied palate, the 2007 captures the ripeness and concentration of the vintage without veering into jamminess. The savory finish is energetic and long-lasting. This is a stunning Clos des Papes…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pape Clément is a blockbuster. Rich, heady and explosive, the 2005 packs a serious punch. Inky black fruit, new leather, spice, menthol, chocolate, gravel and scorched earth are all kicked up in this decidedly flamboyant Pessac-Léognan. The 2005 boasts tremendous depth, but equally lavish new oak. Even with all of the oak, the…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep red-ruby. Superripe, expressive nose offers black plum, smoke, spices and leather. Denser, sweeter and fatter than the 2006; even more generous and forward today. But this impressively chewy and rich wine also has a powerful underlying spine and plenty of lurking power. Finishes very ripe and very long, with the tannins buried by…

His Father’s Son: Grand Mayne 1955-2011 (May 2021)

The 2005 Grand Mayne has a broody bouquet, quite closed compared to the 2004 with black rather than red fruit, laced with chimney soot and tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, bold structure and superb acidity keeping everything tied together. Plenty of energy here, white pepper and clove notes towards the vibrant,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full ruby-red. Superripe aromas of kirsch and bitter chocolate; slightly porty. Then dense and chocolatey in the mouth, with very ripe currant flavor firmed by menthol and sound acidity. I like the sugar/acid balance here, but the wine comes across as a bit beefy and aggressive, and the finish shows a dry edge. Seems rather…