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Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a very intense, brilliantly-defined bouquet with laser-like precision, incredibly focused and perfectly integrated oak. Less generous than Bichot’s Chambertin at the moment though – this is biding its time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, insistent grip and plenty of freshness. Maybe just a little more confit…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of intense red fruit, undergrowth, cedar and orange blossom aromas. The medium-bodied palate is lithe and deep, delivering fine tannins, red berry fruit and great tension and depth on the finish. This is an immense Chambertin, one where winemaker Cyrielle Rousseau has managed to impart a…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru was showing a little more reduction than the Les Combottes, though not much, allowing black fruit laced with crushed stone and iris flower to emerge with aeration. The palate is beautifully defined with succulent, vibrant red and black fruit, hints of blood orange and a subtle irony tincture…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Combottes 1er Cru contains around 55–60% whole bunch this year. The almost crystalline bouquet of shimmering blackberry and blueberry fruit is laced with crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with wonderful grip on the entry, a fine bead of acidity and a structured, slightly tarry finish that lingers in the mouth….

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a very intense and opulent bouquet that is currently less expressive than the Les Suchots, but I find more breeding and delineation here, more terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, wonderful structure, certainly the spiciest as if there is some whole bunch in here…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(13.3% natural alcohol, from a healthy crop level of 42 hectoliters per hectare): Bright dark red. Lovely lift to the aromas of blackberry, licorice and violet. At once fine-grained and penetrating, even a bit unyielding today, showing strong medicinal reserve to its black fruit, menthol and licorice flavors. Still, this is harmonious from the outset,…