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1971 x 50 (Feb 2021)

Tasted three times over the years, the 1971 Haut-Brion has held up reasonably well, given that it was never a great vintage in Pessac Léognan. Modest black fruit is laced with iron filings, though it is dusty and lacks the cohesion of modern-day examples. The palate is medium-bodied and relatively light, subtle hickory and sage…

On the Tuscan Coast: New Releases (Oct 2015)

The 2013 Ornellaia Bianco, a Sauvignon/Viognier blend that spent a year in barrel, is an addition to the range and the estate’s most ambitious white wine to date. A host of lemon peel, white flowers, mint and slate are all beautifully delineated and totally vivid as this dazzling, crystalline white shows off its translucent energy….

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was showing a little reduction on the nose, although there is good intensity underneath. The palate is well balanced with a crisp line of acidity, the tangy orange peel and apricot notes bursting forth, and a racy, tightly wound finish. It lacks a little length on the aftertaste, but it…

The Wines That Shaped My Life (Mar 2022)

The 1983 Pichon Comtesse de Lalande is now fully mature and expressive. Pretty red berry fruit mingles with graphite and cigar box. This bottle shows a little camphor with aeration. The palate is supremely well balanced, less powerful than a few years ago, harmonious and smooth, unpretentious and quintessentially Pauillac with its pencil shaving-tinged, elegant…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2000 Dom Pérignon is a gorgeous wine to drink now, as it is already showing quite a bit of aromatic and flavor complexity. Although the 2000 doesn’t have the multi-dimensional personality or structure of the very best DPs, it does offer tremendous drinking pleasure today. Hints of pastry, baked apple and mint add nuance,…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Pale gold with a fine bead. Gently smoky aromas of lemon, pear, bay, buttered toast and lees. Round, lightly sweet orange and pear flavors are underscored by smoky minerals and given bite by refreshingly bitter lemon pith. Finishes with a lingering smokiness. This is drinking very well right now and offers classic DP toastiness.