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Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Green-tinged gold. Incredibly complex, intense bouquet of smoky, leesy orange, pear, licorice, minerals and bitter quinine. The superconcentrated citrus, quince and pear liqueur flavors convey an almost painful impression of extract and positively explode across the palate. Elegant, poised and precise in a manner rare for a wine with such flavor intensity. The vibrant, minerally,…

Vinous Table: Ristorante Osteria Carletti, Bedano, Switzerland (Mar 2018)

The 1996 Salon is just dazzling. It needs a good bit of air to fully open up, but the 1996 Salon is simply a mesmerizing Champagne that sizzles with energy, cut and total precision. A second bottle later in the week was every bit as compelling. When the 1996 Salon is on, it is just…

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

Good deep red. Knockout aromas of crushed dark fruits, peony and perfumed oak (this is actually aging in a one-year-barrel but smells oakier than that). Thick, dense and layered but youthfully imploded today, offering sappy, pungent flavors of blueberry, violet, white pepper and smoky, salty minerality. Combines the power of the Amoureuses and the gracefulness…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Musigny is at times delicate, understated, exotic and flashy. In reality, all of those elements are present at the same time. The Musigny possesses the most regal, polished of fruit supported by sweet, silky tannins that are dazzling. The operative word here is finesse, and the 2010 has it in spades. Sweet, candied…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru does not quite have the vigour and energy displayed by Bruno Clair on the nose. Open-knit red fruit, a slight chalky character come through with aeration. Understated, yet there is Grand Cru pedigree here and it blossoms with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated, quite bold tannins that frame…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a level up in terms of intensity, offering layers of black cherry and blueberry fruit; this could only come from this particular vineyard. Wonderful precision and quite floral. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip, succulent tannins and a very saline finish. A very intense Bonnes-Mares, almost overwhelming toward…