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South Australia, Victoria and a Bit Beyond (Sep 2022)

Limpid straw-yellow. Sharply defined citrus fruit and floral scents display a chalky mineral topnote and a suggestion of quinine. Chewy and tightly wound in the mouth, offering intense lime and grapefruit pith, pear skin and melon flavors and a touch of succulent herbs. The mineral note returns on the penetrating finish, which lingers with strong…

Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

The 2015 Rocheyron is a huge, massively endowed St.-Émilion marked by considerable richness but even bigger tannins that clamp down on the fruit and convey an impression of austerity. This is a work in progress. For now, there is little pleasure here.

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Corton is a showstopper. The huge, boisterous bouquet is the first sign the Corton is just as dazzling from bottle as it was from barrel. Layers of fruit saturate the palate as this flashy, exuberant wine continues to put on weight as it sits in the glass. This is a decidedly opulent Burgundy…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good deep red. Sexy, high-toned perfume of liqueur-like red berries, orange zest, minerals and truffle. Penetrating, savory and intense, delivering an exhilarating combination of creamy texture and energy. Wonderfully rich flavors of strawberry, raspberry, smoke and minerals complicated by chocolate and wild herbs. Firmly structured, very long wine with tannins fully enrobed by fruit. A…

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Corton is a showstopper. The huge, boisterous bouquet is the first sign the Corton is just as dazzling from bottle as it was from barrel. Layers of fruit saturate the palate as this flashy, exuberant wine continues to put on weight as it sits in the glass. This is a decidedly opulent Burgundy…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good deep red. Sexy, high-toned perfume of liqueur-like red berries, orange zest, minerals and truffle. Penetrating, savory and intense, delivering an exhilarating combination of creamy texture and energy. Wonderfully rich flavors of strawberry, raspberry, smoke and minerals complicated by chocolate and wild herbs. Firmly structured, very long wine with tannins fully enrobed by fruit. A…