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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, bitter chocolate, nutty oak and a whiff of sweet butter on the nose. Fat, sweet and fairly full-bodied, with mocha and smoke notes and a suggestion of lees (consultant Stephane Derenoncourt does a lot of work with the lees and minimal racking here). At once fruity and solid, finishing with ripe, granular…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(73% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot) Opaque ruby-purple; this really stains the glass. Intense herbal, cola and coffee notes keep the blackcurrant aroma in check, but I find this nose ultimately lacks grace. Straightforward and austere, with blackberry, cedar and herbal flavors displaying good length. Finishes with a nice peppery kick but this Pauillac currently…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Duhart-Milon has an intense but tightly coiled nose of black fruit laced with cedar and mint. I would have liked to see a little more precision. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and very well judged acidity. There is an appealing sense of symmetry here with fine precision and tension on the…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(76% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, and 9% cabernet franc; ph 3.65; IPT 70; 13.4% alcohol; 65% new oak) Purple ruby. Initially closed nose opens slowly with air to reveal blackcurrant, blueberry, tobacco and minerals. Then remarkably supple and pliant in the mouth, with extremely sweet red and black fruit flavors complicated by graphite, tobacco and…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Brilliant medium ruby. Brooding, medicinal aromas of cassis, blueberry, exotic spices and sexy oak. Large-scaled, dense and deep, with superconcentrated dark fruit and spice flavors given definition by strong acidity. Hugely rich but impeccably balanced Saint-Julien wine with a great, slowly building finish featuring a boatload of harmonious, noble, fully ripe tannins. This endless, subtle…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Léoville Las Cases is poured blind and just soars in the glass. What stunned me was the tension and precision on the nose, tropes that I do not find with many Left Bank wines in this vintage. It has fabulous mineralité with that crushed stone element more pronounced than ever. The palate has…