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The Magician’s Fool: 1950s Bordeaux (Feb 2018)

The 1957 Mouton Rothschild was served blind, the first time I had encountered this particular vintage. It has a surprisingly fresh nose of wild mint, cranberry and damp undergrowth, clean and well defined, certainly expressing the typicity of Pauillac after so many years. The palate offers sweet red cherry and crushed strawberry on the entry,…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 2014 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was the first time I had tasted the wine in bottle after first sampling it at the domaine. It is more open than expected and displays less reduction than the 2005 tasted alongside, offering penetrating citrus peel, lanolin, crushed limestone and fragrant yellow flower scents. The palate is beautifully balanced…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 2014 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was the first time I had tasted the wine in bottle after first sampling it at the domaine. It is more open than expected and displays less reduction than the 2005 tasted alongside, offering penetrating citrus peel, lanolin, crushed limestone and fragrant yellow flower scents. The palate is beautifully balanced…

Life Is Funny Like That: 1999 & 2015 DRC (Apr 2018)

The 2015 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru was cropped at 30.42hl/ha on 11 and 12 September. It has a glorious bouquet that springs from the glass: Morello cherries, crushed strawberry, crushed stone, just a hint of bay leaf all beautifully defined and with a little more horsepower than the Echézeaux. The palate is medium-bodied with a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Healthy dark red. More subdued on the nose than the Echézeaux, with its very pure aromas of dark berries, cherry, spices and violet conveying outstanding subtle lift. Larger-scaled but tighter and more imploded than the Echézeaux, showing more early mineral pungency as well as a tighter kernel of sharply delineated fruits and spices. But this…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux has a very pure bouquet with blackberry, raspberry coulis, cedar and light violet aromas, quite intense and graining power in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly powdery tannin. The acidity is very well judged, a completely harmonious Pavillon Rouge with just the right amount of spice…