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Vinous Table: Le Bistro de L’Hôtel de Beaune, Beaune, France (Apr 2019)

The bouquet is drop-dead gorgeous, lively and broad, and beautifully defined as always, offering scents of citrus fruit, toasted walnuts and a hint of brioche. The exquisitely balanced palate displays spine-tingling mineralité and real tension and grace. The long, quite deep finish makes me wonder whether this 2006 will meliorate with further bottle age. Should…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis Mont Luisants 1er Cru Blanc has a very impressive, mineral-driven bouquet with assiduous reduction that lends edginess without impeding upon terroir expression. The palate is very well balanced with great depth and the volume I often look for in a Mont Luisants, almost creamy in texture on the very “gras” finish. Excellent….

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Medium red. Vinous aromas of redcurrant and tobacco. Round on the palate, with a slightly roasted cherry flavor lifted by an element of minerality. A fairly voluminous and solid wine, finishing with fine, dusty tannins.

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Moderately saturated medium red. Bright, nuanced nose combines raspberry, red berries, minerals, menthol and smoke. Refreshing and shapely on the palate, with juicy acidity framing the red fruit and spice flavors. Not a fat style but intense, suave and nicely understated. Finishes long, with noteworthy grip. A lovely 2008 from Beaune.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Combe Aux Moines 1er Cru has one of the finest aromatics from Fourrier, offering mineral-soaked black and red fruit armed with laser-like focus. The clean, precise palate is very well balanced with fine tannins and a superb line of acidity. The disarmingly silky finish shows a surfeit of freshness. Superb!

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Medium red. Very ripe aromas of strawberry, raspberry and minerals. Then lush, silky, sweet and suave, with musky flavors of red berries, spices and red pepper. Distinctly fatter and more pliant than the Chaignots. Here, too, the tannins are quite fine.