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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru is more timid on the nose following on from the Les Combettes and this needed more encouragement from the glass. Cold stone, granite and flint aromas are the order of the day, very well defined and precise. The palate is very concentrated with a lot of grip, the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru was showing a little more reduction than the Les Combottes, though not much, allowing black fruit laced with crushed stone and iris flower to emerge with aeration. The palate is beautifully defined with succulent, vibrant red and black fruit, hints of blood orange and a subtle irony tincture…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terse, mineral, flinty bouquet with touches of powdered chalk coming through with time, later a Crustacea note. You would think someone has wandered in with a silver turine of fruits de mer! The palate is very poised on the entry with a twist of sour lemon, crisp acidity,…

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru is another of the more expressive wines in the range. It opens with striking mid-palate pliancy and also possesses a level of inner sweetness the other wines don’t have, and yet there is plenty of the tannic clout that defines the Richebourg as well. Time in the glass allows…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 6 and 7 at 34hl/ha and bottled between March 25 and April 24. As Aubert de Villaine had noted earlier, this is a more introverted La Tâche that bided its time in the glass. The fruit is slightly darker than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, with the addition…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

(this fruit on the Pouget side was picked late, with great richness, according to Barnier): Pale, bright lemon-yellow. Cool aromas of lemon ice, lime, tarragon, anise and metallic minerality. Surprisingly sweet on entry, then as powerful, structured and tannic as a red wine. Rounder and richer than the comparatively angular, almost painful Chevalier-Montrachet, but impenetrable…