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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er Cru matches Chevillon’s Les Saint-Georges pound for pound in terms of intensity and precision, offering brambly black fruit, crushed rock, tangerine and raspberry preserve scents that blossom with aeration. The medium-bodied palate features very supple tannins and pitch-perfect acidity, although perhaps at the moment the Les Saint-Georges demonstrates…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er Cru does not quite deliver the complexity of its peers, perhaps just a touch of reduction at play here. I suspect that this just requires time. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, dense and weighty, a “heavy” NSG that lacks grace and mineralité, though I appreciate the…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Doisy-Daëne is effusive and intensely aromatic right from the start. Sweet floral notes, baked apple tart, pineapple and mint abound. Bright and beautifully lifted, with terrific presence and plenty of richness, Doisy-Daëne is simply fabulous in 2018. Time in the glass brings out its textured, resonant personality nicely. All I can say is…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Doisy-Daëne has a well-defined bouquet, a little reticent at first but opening to offer scents of wild honey, white flowers and orange blossom. The palate is medium-bodied with a ripe, viscous opening, very pure and full of tension, more so than other 2018 Sauternes/Barsacs. Very persistent on the finish. This is an excellent…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Lynch-Bages is unusual but also quite pretty. In this vintage the flavors are quite dark, with distinct dark red/purplish overtones. Dried flowers, cloves and sage are some of the notes that develop with time in the glass. The 2013 finishes with lovely length and precision. The blend is 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot,…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

Ruby-red. Complex aromas of blackberry, espresso, flint and violet. Expansive and sweet on the palate, with almost soft, perfumed flavors of dark berries, sweet spices and white pepper. Offers a lovely combination of sweetness and vibrancy. Finishes firm, with youthfully chewy tannins and a lingering leafy nuance.