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Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Valandraud is very deep in colour. The nose is very intense with black cherries, blueberry, fig jam and black olive compote, nicely defined but perhaps intending to close down for two or three years. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, fleshy tannins. There is a mixture of red and black fruit laced with…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Valandraud has a ripe and opulent bouquet with precocious red fruit, fig and rose petals, a little warmth of alcohol blurring the edges and becoming more tarry with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent plush, saturated tannin. This is sleek and modern in style, heady and concentrated with a decadent finish. It…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Full ruby-red. Lively aromas of blackberry and licorice. Juicy, intense and sharply delineated, with black fruit, mineral and floral flavors spreading out to saturate the palate. Ripe acidity energizes and extends the flavors on the suavely tannic, very long finish. With 72 hours in the recorked bottle, this beauty remained fresh and firm.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(an 80/20 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; pH 3.5; 14% alcohol; 100 IPT) Glass-staining opaque purple-ruby. The nose initially shows heavy torrefaction notes of roasted coffee bean and cedar, but blackcurrant and spicy plum notes emerge slowly with aeration. Then smooth, ripe and light on its feet, with lively, nicely integrated acids framing and…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Raspberry, plum, licorice and mocha on the nose, plus suggestions of meat, leather and burning tobacco. Supple and smooth on entry, then a bit simple in the middle palate, with a slight mintiness emerging with aeration. This is less filled in than the promising 2006, with less verve and definition. Finishes broad but slightly…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Sappy aromas of very ripe redcurrant, tobacco and minerals. Fat, sexy and deep, with flavors of redcurrant, plum, tobacco and spice lifted by the wine’s mineral component. Wonderfully rich, full-blown wine, finishing with serious toothcoating tannins that call for at least four or five years of patience. This is close to 14% alcohol, but…