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The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(tasted from tank, after fining): Bright, light yellow. Restrained aromas of lemon, minerals and flint. Juicy, lemony and brisk, with underlying minerality giving the broad mid-palate a light touch. Best today on the echoing, dusty finish, which really piques the taste buds.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Very pale yellow. Expressive aromas of pineapple, peach and flowers. Silky, full, classically dry village wine with a very ripe fruit character leavened by harmonious acidity. A bit less refined than the young 2016 version, finishing dustier and more phenolic, with very good length.

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(tasted from tank; already fined): Bright yellow. Aromas of yellow peach and white plum, with a liqueur-like suggestion of mirabelle. Broad, rich and dry, showing a sexy fine-grained mouthfeel. This dense, classic village Puligny conveys an impression of laid-back energy and finishes with lovely lift and finesse.

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

(bottled two weeks before my November visit; aged in 50% new oak for ten months): Bright yellow-gold. Scented, complex aromas of mirabelle, botanical herbs, ginger, crushed stone and spicy oak. Sappy, dry wine with lovely chewy depth to its soil-driven saline, spice and lemon flavors. Finishes with a youthful reserve and strong lingering spices.

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Dark, bright-rimmed purple. Powerful red and dark berry preserve and cherry cola scents are complemented by exotic spice, incense and floral oil notes. Sappy and densely packed, offering palate-staining black raspberry, cherry liqueur, violet pastille and spicecake flavors braced by a core of juicy acidity. Youthfully chewy tannins build steadily on a strikingly long, penetrating…

1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Brooding aromas of cassis, spice and woodsmoke, along with port-like notes of chocolate and damp earth. Thick, silky and a bit roasted in the mouth, with chocolate and game flavors. Still in a rather oxidative phase, as this wine often is in the year or two following the bottling. But has the acidity…