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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Montrose is notoriously unpredictable, veering from monumental to misfire between bottles. This is definitely the former. It has an intense nose and yes, unmistakably there is some Brettanomyces, though it politely remains in the background and allows those lovely black fruit, loam and iris flower scents to blossom in the glass. Wonderful focus….

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Monthélie Village is a little more backward on the nose compared to the Auxey-Duresses, well defined but just a bit timid at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, nicely structured with dark berry fruit towards the finish.

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge has a bright, perky bouquet with touches of red cherry and blueberry. The palate is well balanced, quite tensile and lively with ample depth and a more peppery finish than many of its peers. You could knock this back now if you want (why not?), but it will age for four…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Bourgogne Blanc has a light bouquet with touches of red apple and dewy meadow. It is certainly lighter than recent vintages, as you would expect, given the growing season. The palate, slightly waxy in texture, has plenty of depth, with fleeting touches of chamomile towards the finish. Drink over the next 3-5 years.

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Very tight but pure scents of citrus peel, wet stone and menthol, plus a whiff of toasty oak (37% new in 2016). Remarkably silky, fleshy and broad and yet this grand cru conveys an almost electric impression of energy that’s rare for such a layered, rich wine. A bit less citrussy than the Perrières but…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Grands Vignes Rouge 1er Cru has a deep garnet colour. This is burlier and more powerful than its peers, more savoury in style with hints of dried blood infusing the red fruit, leaning a little into that New World-like opulence that is atypical for the vintage. The palate is…