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1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Deep ruby-red. Aromas of black plum, blackberry, roast coffee and spicy oak. Lush and dense but bright, with lovely inner-mouth perfume of dark berries and mint. Finishes with dusty, even tannins and very good length.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 61% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 6% petit verdot; 13.6 % alcohol; pH 3.72; 78 IPT; 40% new oak) Bright red. Charming, fruity aromas of strawberry, raspberry and clove. Then surprisingly firm on entry, with stiff tannins providing backbone to the ripe red fruit and herbal flavors. The persistent…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gloria has a well defined, classic Saint-Julien bouquet with blackberry, forest floor, cedar and hints of mint coming through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. Not unlike Branaire-Ducru in style but with just a little more heft towards the grippy finish. This is a Gloria that I would broach over…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gloria is tightly wound on the nose with lifted blackberry, bilberry, brine and crushed stone aromas – very nicely focused with real vigour and vibrancy. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain but assertive tannin that frame the layers of toasty black fruit laced with brown spices and white pepper. There is real…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good deep ruby-red. Distinctive, oak-dominated aromas of crushed blackberry, cedar, tar and meat; distinctly Rioja-like. Then dry, penetrating and uncompromising, with strong berry flavor and somewhat tart-edged acidity. A rather skinny St. Julien that may put on weight in bottle. Finishes with dusty tannins and very good length. Seems far crisper than an early sample…

Lower Your Sails Again: Beychevelle 1905-2015 (Jan 2025)

The 1995 Beychevelle has never been one of my favorite vintages, inferior to the 2005 or 2015 that I juxtaposed at the table. Dark berry fruit, quite ferrous, is evidence of a little Brettanomyces. The palate is powerful and muscular, which is not really the Beychevelle style, and quite spicy towards the finish. Will it…