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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(35% cabernet franc, 35% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot) Deep ruby-red. Ripe aromas of blackberry and cassis along with oak-derived clove, cinnamon and coriander. Soft and supple on entry, with flavors similar to the aromas, then increasingly austere toward the back, finishing with mounting tannins and a persistent floral quality. There’s plenty of ripe fruit…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2010 Figeac has a deep hue. The nose is quite introverted at first, with dark berry fruit, incense, touches of fig and mulberry. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, gorgeous pure fruit, mulberry and dark plum, gentle considering the vintage. This 2010 has softened in the last couple of…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, blueberry, flowers and clove on the precise, vibrant nose. Then tight and imploded on the palate, with an almost minty, peppery austerity to the black and blue fruit flavors; hardly your typical 2010! This very pure, spicy Saint-Emilion has the structure of a cabernet, and its youthfully forbidding tannins call for at…

2016 Barolo: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2020)

The 2016 Barolo Prapò is the most closed and inward of the wines in this range, as it so often is. Iron, savory herbs, menthol, licorice, lavender, macerated dark cherry, dried flowers and sinewy Serralunga tannins give the 2016 its distinctive personality. Aeration brings out that beguiling mix of floral, savory and earhty overtones that…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2011 Comtes de Champagne remains a challenging wine. Short, compact and lacking in complexity, the 2011 just doesn’t have that much to offer. On a more positive note, there’s good freshness and fewer of the vegetal notes I saw a few years ago. This is the best showing yet for the 2011.

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

So far I have tasted two bottles of the 2011 Comtes de Champagne. The first was strongly vegetal, with angular contours and virtually no fruit; the second was unyielding and compact, with no mid-palate and no finish to speak of. To say the 2011 is far off the mark would be a massive understatement. Perhaps,…