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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Deep, bright medium red. Roasted, slightly wild aromas of black raspberry, mocha and game complicated by an exotic candied quality. Lush, silky and utterly seamless wine, with compelling concentration and sweetness of fruit. This didn’t quite match the Haut-Bailly I tasted before it for lift but there’s enough energy here, not to mention noble, fully…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(14.5% alcohol; 100% new oak) Ruby-red. Captivating strawberry and violet aromas speak of the cabernet franc component, but there is also a noticeable and clever use of new oak here. Dense, supple and luscious in the mouth, with rich flavors of red cherry, red berries and vanilla that last and last. Finishes with light peppery…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Branon has a pure bouquet with black cherries, bilberry and just a touch of boot polish. It feels well defined with nicely integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, juicy and succulent with a nicely detailed, quite peppery finish with a persistent aftertaste. Based on this performance I might well have…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Deep, bright medium red. Roasted, slightly wild aromas of black raspberry, mocha and game complicated by an exotic candied quality. Lush, silky and utterly seamless wine, with compelling concentration and sweetness of fruit. This didn’t quite match the Haut-Bailly I tasted before it for lift but there’s enough energy here, not to mention noble, fully…

2016 Barolo, Part 2 & Late Releases (Oct 2020)

The 2015 Barolo Pira is lifted and gracious in feel. In this vintage, the Pira is notably perfumed and restrained. Rose petal, mint, crushed flowers, dried cherry, star anise and cinnamon are some of the many notes that grace this delicate, lilting Barolo from Luca Roagna. The tannins are persistent and fine, lending a slightly…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

A beguiling mix of camphor and minty herbs, along with crushed stone, blows off slowly to reveal dark depths of black raspberry, licorice, autumnal spice and worn leather as the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli unfolds in the glass. Its textures are unexpectedly soft and velvety-smooth, coupled with depths of intense red fruits…