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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

Just as it was from barrel, the 2018 Duhart-Milon is a real powerhouse. Black cherry, gravel, spice, espresso and savory herbs infuse the 2018 with notable depth and power. A brooding, virile wine, the Duhart-Milon packs a serious punch. I would give it a few years to soften. The 2018 has really come together since…

The Future’s Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Nov 2019)

The 2018 Duhart-Milon was helped by light rain on August 28 and September 5 that nudged ripening back on track after a period of drought. It has a very well-defined bouquet of blackberry, bilberry, oyster shells and tobacco, focused and intense. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, but there is real backbone and a…

Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond (Mar 2019)

The 2015 Matarocchio, 100% Cabernet Franc, offers a breathtaking expression of the textural creaminess and radiance that makes the best wines from Bolgheri so alluring. Spice, truffle, espresso, mocha and raspberry jam give the 2015 a decidedly exotic feel. The explosive energy and aromatic intensity of Franc are on full display. The 2015 is a…

Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

The 2015 La Clotte presents a striking interplay of aromatics, fruit and structure. Beams of tannin give La Clotte much of its distinctive personality. Espresso, mocha, leather, dark cherry, savor herbs and plum open up nicely in the glass. La Clotte is one of the least expressive wines in the Vauthier family’s range this year,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(14.5% alcohol; 100% new oak) Ruby-red. Captivating strawberry and violet aromas speak of the cabernet franc component, but there is also a noticeable and clever use of new oak here. Dense, supple and luscious in the mouth, with rich flavors of red cherry, red berries and vanilla that last and last. Finishes with light peppery…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Branon has a pure bouquet with black cherries, bilberry and just a touch of boot polish. It feels well defined with nicely integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, juicy and succulent with a nicely detailed, quite peppery finish with a persistent aftertaste. Based on this performance I might well have…