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2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Deep red-ruby, the darkest of these 2008s. Complex aromas of black fruits, licorice, caraway seed, game and smoke. Big, sweet and rich; plush and deep without coming across as heavy. Lovely inner-mouth aromatic perfume to the flavors of black fruits and spices. A broad, silky, savory wine that really spreads out to saturate the palate…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Very pale cherry-red. High-toned, perfumed aromas of redcurrant, strawberry, raspberry, rose petal, marzipan and orange zest. Lush on entry, then silky and fine-grained in the middle, with sweet raspberry and redcurrant flavors dominating. A tad harsh on the finish today, with some edgy acidity that’s not yet in harmony with the wine’s tannins.

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

Rousseau’s 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is flat-out gorgeous. Waves of blue/purplish fruit hit the palate in an intense, explosive Burgundy loaded with pure class and pedigree. This is another 2011 that is going to need considerable time in bottle to come around. Today, the Clos St. Jacques impresses for its richness, power and depth.

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Good full red. Spicy red berries, cherry, licorice and a hint of horseradish on the nose. Juicy, brisk and taut; not hugely fleshy but energetic and penetrating. Conveys an impression of density without weight in the manner of the best 2011s. Tightly wound and very backward, finishing with terrific spicy persistence. Eric Rousseau bottled his…

Bartolo Mascarello Retrospective: 1958-2010 (Nov 2016)

Sensual, silky and totally alluring, the 2004 Barolo is another wine that is a picture-perfect example of its vintage. The aromatics alone are captivating, but it is the wine’s total balance that places it in the upper echelon. After some of the ups and downs of the 1980s and 1990s’ wines, the 2004 really shows…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

(bottled a month prior to my visit) Good brilliant full red with a hint of amber. Distinctly more primary aromas than the 2003: fresh cherry, raspberry, menthol, dried flowers and an exotic suggestion of orange zest that contributes to the impression of lift. Fresh and gripping, though quite closed, even a bit pinched, after the…