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Vinous Table: Ristorante Osteria Carletti, Bedano, Switzerland (Mar 2018)

The 1996 Salon is just dazzling. It needs a good bit of air to fully open up, but the 1996 Salon is simply a mesmerizing Champagne that sizzles with energy, cut and total precision. A second bottle later in the week was every bit as compelling. When the 1996 Salon is on, it is just…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good bright ruby-red. Pretty aromas of black cherry, cassis, tobacco leaf, minerals, licorice and violet. Chewy, rich and deep, with good dense mid-palate fruit and excellent concentration. Fuller and sweeter than the Langoa. Finishes long and delineated, with powerful tannic clout and terrific mineral thrust. A serious 2006 for the cellar.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Bright red-ruby. Strong redcurrant and cherry liqueur aromas, complemented by sweet oak. Very rich and thick, with a candied, liqueur-like quality that reminded me of a chocolate truffle. Very Clos Vougeot in its medicinal, menthol character, but can’t quite match the lift or class of Grivot’s ’05s from higher-altitude sites. This is a more earth-bound…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium-deep ruby-red. Superripe, roasted aromas of black raspberry, chocolate and licorice. Wonderfully dense, sweet and lush, with an early roundness rare for this wine. A monumental St. Estephe with almost confectionery sweetness. Wonderfully horizontal, palate-saturating wine with huge but thoroughly ripe, lush tannins. It’s hard to believe that a wine this rich and deep…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2005 Montrose replicated previous showings of that formidable wine. The bouquet is backward and here exuding more black fruit than previous bottles, rendering it more akin to the 2010 Montrose. With aeration those telltale scents of pencil lead emerge, although this bottle shows a touch more brine. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin,…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(13.2% alcohol) Good bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of plum, flint and nutty oak. Large-scaled, rich and explosive, offering impressive volume and a sensation of power. The ripeness here verges on syrupy and this lush, round wine may well need a decade to lose some of its baby fat and assume its adult shape. The…