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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

(70% cabernet sauvignon, 24% merlot, and the rest cabernet franc and petit verdot) Medium red-ruby. Aromatic nose combines currant, kirsch, licorice and fresh herbs, lifted by exotic oak spices. Supple and moderately ripe, with slightly medicinal, minty flavors and good breadth. Not especially gripping wine but finishes with reasonably ripe tannins and good length. Margaux

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright red-ruby. Cassis, black cherry, violet, licorice and herbs on the perfumed nose. Then a bit tart and tough in the mouth, with black fruit and licorice flavors accented by pungent pepper and aromatic herb nuances. Slightly gritty tannins clash with strong acidity on the finish, giving the wine a lightly sour edge and…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux has a lovely, open nose with more red than black fruit, cedar and undergrowth, touches of black pepper. Good vigour here. The palate is well balanced with sappy red fruit, though because of the vintage, it feels a little monotone and slightly underripe on the finish, doesn’t quite…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)

Deep ruby. Explosive, powerful aromas of blackberry, wild cherry, red plum, violet, coffee, licorice candy and peppered bacon. Then silky, suave and creamy on the palate, with concentrated flavors of creme de mure, ripe blackcurrant, anise and exotic oak spice. Finishes long and sweet, with round tannins and a hint of five-spice powder.

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

Things go up a notch or two with the 2010 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, which appears to hover on the palate with the grace of a ballerina. The Bienvenues is all about weightless elegance and implied structure, but it is all there in the glass. At times a bit intellectual, the Bienvenues is nevertheless immensely appealing. Layers of…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(bottled three weeks prior to my visit): Bright yellow. Subdued aromas of white peach, pineapple and white flowers lifted by spicy clove oil. At once elegant and penetrating, showing superb depth and building energy to its bracing citrus-dominated flavors. Nothing exotic about this beauty. Really leaves the taste buds vibrating. A great showing for this…