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Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Bâtard-Montrachet covers every inch of the palate with fruit. In 2010, the Bâtard is towering, statuesque and simply impeccable. Today the aromas and flavors are not at all developed, rather the wine is really all about textural elegance and finesse, and there is plenty of that here. A huge, explosive finish rounds things…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(bottled two weeks before my visit; 13.4% alcohol, vs. 13% for the Bienvenue): Bright, green-tinged yellow. Captivating aromas of white peach, pineapple, curry powder, medicinal herbs and musky lees. Sappy, chewy and dry, but completely locked up following the bottling and showing much less personality than the nose suggests. But this wonderfully tactile, fine-grained wine…

2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)

Deep, brooding aromas of apricot, minerals, menthol and clove, with a suggestion of superripeness and outstanding complexity. Superconcentrated, sweet and powerful, with harmonious ripe acidity buffering the wine’s alcohol and extending its finish. This really saturates the palate with flavor.

Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

A big, voluptuous Burgundy, the 2000 Bâtard-Montrachet captures all of the personality of this site in its large-scaled frame and pure density. All of that energy is focused inward, though, as the Bâtard is not at all showy, but rather a wine of structure. The 2000 still has a lot to say.

2001 and 2000 White Burgundies (Sep 2002)

Deeply pitched aromas of roasted grain, nut oil and clove. Big, rich and mouthfilling, with harmonious ripe acidity framing the peach and pear fruit flavors. Very dense and very long; the dusty finish seems almost tannic but retains lovely fruit and finesse.

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Medium red, less bright than the Poisets. Plum and currant aromas. Fat, sweet and plump; in a softer, easier style, already capable of giving pleasure. But sound acids give freshness to the chewy fruit. Tannins are dusty and broad. The vein of sand running through this clay-and-chalk site gives the wine more roundness, according to…