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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Branaire Ducru, a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot and 40% Merlot with 12.95° alcohol. It has a clear dark ruby colour. The bouquet demanded some encouragement from the glass, eventually revealing attractive brambly red berry fruit mingling with sandalwood, a touch of mint and dried herbs. The palate is medium-bodied…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Raspberry, cedar, smoke, leather and milk chocolate on the nose. Supple and plummy in the middle, with a pliancy from the merlot but still in the dryer vein of ’98. Finishes with dusty, slightly dry tannins. I find this a bit austere on the back half.

Dom Pérignon in Three Acts (Nov 2017)

One of the highlights of the evening, the 1973 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque (Disgorged 2010) is vivid and finely sculpted. There is plenty of nuance, depth and freshness in the glass, but it is the wine’s staying power and overall persistence that stand out most, especially as the evening wears on. In this flight, the 1973…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full ruby-red. Wild, exotic aromas of crystallized redcurrant, leather, tobacco and minerals; distinctly exotic, even overripe. Then lush, sweet and opulent, with an atypically velvety texture for Montrose. But extremely young and structured, finishing with powerful tannins and great grip and length. Almost California-like in style; in Bordeaux, they’d refer to the fruit expression of…

The Best New Releases From Australia (Jul 1998)

Saturated ruby-red. Vibrant blackberry and blackcurrant nose shows pronounced sweet oak notes of scotch and tar. Juicy and intensely flavored, though currently a bit musclebound and not yet showing much complexity. But the tart, juicy berry flavors are fresh and nicely delineated. Finishes with dusty, slightly tongue-drying (oak?) tannins. May yet merit a higher score.

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

Tasted blind, the 1988 Lafite-Rothschild surprises everyone by surpassing both the 1989 and 1990. It has that unmistakable classic nose of pencil lead and cedar, less primary fruit than that aforementioned pair, yet greater precision, more focus and more class. The palate is both clean and precise with exquisite balance, fine tannins, cedar and tobacco…