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2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Deep red. Aromas of cassis, black cherry, roasted strawberry, licorice and woodsmoke. A bit disjointed today, with the wine herbal element clashing with its roasted, tarry oak. Like a few of these ’99s, this is not showing the texture and breadth it displayed a year ago from barrel, perhaps a result of filtration (some Faiveley…

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Bâtard-Montrachet covers every inch of the palate with fruit. In 2010, the Bâtard is towering, statuesque and simply impeccable. Today the aromas and flavors are not at all developed, rather the wine is really all about textural elegance and finesse, and there is plenty of that here. A huge, explosive finish rounds things…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(bottled two weeks before my visit; 13.4% alcohol, vs. 13% for the Bienvenue): Bright, green-tinged yellow. Captivating aromas of white peach, pineapple, curry powder, medicinal herbs and musky lees. Sappy, chewy and dry, but completely locked up following the bottling and showing much less personality than the nose suggests. But this wonderfully tactile, fine-grained wine…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Green-tinged gold. Deep, smoky, exotic bouquet of poached pear, yellow plum, nectarine, lees and cured meat. Lush and creamy, with intensely smoky orchard fruit flavors and a sweet/spicy cinnamon toast quality. Deep, chewy and expansive on the finish, where the cinnamon and toasty lees flavors echo with noteworthy persistence. Complex enough to enjoy now but…

The HANY Charity Dinner (Nov 2007)

Dom Pérignon’s 1993 Oenothèque was a very pretty, slender wine with attractive notes of smoke, yeast and roasted nuts.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1970 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I tasted regularly about twenty years ago – always a strong performer even if it did not deliver fireworks. At over half a century, it has not lost a bit of vigour, but there are lovely scents of clove, liquorice and a touch of furniture polish combining with…