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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2009)

Light gold with a steady bead of pinpoint bubbles. Deep, musky aromas of buttered toast, cherry pit, blood orange, lemon rind, pungent herbs and yellow rose, with mounting spiciness. Deeply concentrated but showing unlikely finesse, with firm, gripping red berry and citrus flavors and exotic notes of candied flowers and smoky lees. Intriguing for its…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château Margaux, last tasted five years previously, is slightly deeper in color compared with the 2001 Pavillon. Featuring black plum, raspberry and touches of orange peel, rose petal and light bay leaf aromas, the bouquet is not intense, but it is well defined and focused. The palate is fresh on the entry with…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Enticing aromas of boysenberry, cedar, espresso and roasted oak. Sweet, lush and broad in the mouth, with sappy berry and espresso flavors. This boasts the pliant texture and near-perfect balance of the vintage’s best examples. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins. Like so many 2001s, this is easy to taste today but may well…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

Very youthful deep ruby-red color. Brooding nose offers perfumed blackcurrant, mineral, violet and quinine aromas. Big, dense and rich, conveying an impression of strong extract to the powerful, well-delineated blackberry and herb flavors. The long, tactile finish features chewy but polished tannins and a lingering floral note. Though ready to drink now, this wine will…

Vinous Event: Soldera Vertical in London (Oct 2016)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, on the other hand, might be the single most elegant wine ever made at the estate. Silky tannins, soaring aromatics and finely sculpted fruit elevate the 2004 into the realm of the truly sublime. It is another remarkable, moving wine.

Soldera Redux: 1981-2006 (Oct 2016)

A regal, towering wine, the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva epitomizes what makes Gianfranco Soldera’s wines so magical. Intense, soaring aromatics, sweet fruit and the silkiest of tannins are some of many signatures. Bright red cherry, white pepper and blood orange develop in the glass, adding considerable nuance. Above all else, the 2004 is a…