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Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reds: The Flamboyant 2014s and the Structured 2013s (Apr 2016)

Brilliant ruby. Smoky red berry and cherry scents show very good clarity and pick up a floral element with air. Supple, open-knit and juicy, conveying a suggestion of white pepper that sharpens pliant raspberry and cherry cola flavors. The spicy quality repeats on the smooth, expansive and persistent finish, which shows just hint of fine-grained,…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1999 Ornellaia (magnum) does not disappoint. This vivid, energetic wine emerges from the glass with a myriad of graphite, menthol, licorice, leather and dark fruit wrapped around a powerful core. The bouquet alone is worth the price of admission. Though not as opulent as the 1997, the 1999 offers exceptional length and a finessed,…

New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 5% cabernet franc) Deep, saturated ruby. The reluctant raspberry nose is followed by ultraripe plum and blackcurrant flavors that penetrate the inner mouth in this extraordinarily plush and fat wine. Bitter chocolate and a hint of vanilla complete the sensory attack. The back end is supported by firm but…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Full ruby-red. Youthful, perfumed nose hints at cherry, flowers, licorice and lead pencil. Dense, brooding and powerful, with superb depth and clarity of cherry, cassis, mineral and floral flavors. An aristocratic, backward, gripping Ornellaia that finishes with explosive length and building tannins. If the ’98 is feminine, this is distinctly masculine. Still an infant.

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Brilliant purple. A heady, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes dark berry preserves, incense, candied flowers, vanilla and cola, with a smoky, incisive mineral nuance building with air. Juicy, penetrating and alluringly sweet, offering deeply concentrated blueberry, cherry-cola, mocha and violet pastille flavors and a strong suggestion of fruitcake. Shockingly vibrant for its depth, with youthfully firm…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(L43PX103290Q): Light, bright yellow. Fragrant, complex scents of Meyer lemon, pear, peach pit and toasty lees. Juicy and precise, with very good depth to its spice citrus and floral flavors. The deeper pear and peach notes come back on the finish, which lingers with serious smoky intensity. This Champagne’s density and focus bode well for…