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Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2013 Masseto is a wine of real vibrancy, clarity and precision. In some moments, the 2013 shows a bit of its voluptuous fruit, but it is rich, structured and clearly in need of time. Like all Massetos from cooler years, the 2013 is a long-distance runner. Give it time. A warm, dry summer helped…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Dark red. Complex, slightly funky aromas of plum, smoked meat, espresso bean, exotic chocolate and leather. Fat and soft, with a plum flavor joined by slightly rustic leather and game on the back. This has a liqueur-like ripeness for the year but could use a bit more definition. The tannins turned a bit dusty with…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Medium red-ruby. Confectionary aromas of raspberry, cocoa powder, mocha and sexy oak; more evolved than either the ’99 or ’98, even considering its extra year of age. Fat, sweet and harmonious; offers lovely balance but just misses out on the density and depth of a great year. Finishes with firm but very suave tannins; this…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Batailley has come together well. Plump and juicy in feel, the 2018 possesses quite a bit of creaminess in its inky dark fruit, chocolate, spice and leather. The new oak is prominent at this stage. Even so, this is nicely done and promising.

The Future’s Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Nov 2019)

The 2018 Haut-Batailley has a sweet, opulent bouquet of macerated black cherries, blueberry, hints of fresh fig and pressed violets. The palate is quite full-bodied, exerting a gentle grip on the entry, and the layers of black fruit are framed by supple tannins. The acidity is nicely judged here (pH 3.61), and it fans out…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Walnut, hazelnut, butterscotch and a Tokaji-like suggestion of damp stone on the yeasty nose. Brisk in texture, quite dry and distinctly mature, with a nut skin note and slightly sour-edged acidity. But concentrated and firmly structured. A classic dinner table bubbly. Bollinger fans appreciate the mature flavors of this Champagne, but my sample seemed a…