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2004 Brunello di Montalcino: A Vintage Full of Surprises (Jun 2009)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is darker and richer than the Rennina. Black cherries, plums, tar, licorice, minerals and leather all come together in this brooding Brunello. The fruit remains intense and full-bodied all the way through to the powerful and deeply satisfying close. Despite the wine’s heft, all of the components are woven…

2004 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2009)

Deep, bright red. Nose initially shows dark berries, chocolate and sweet oak but opens with air to reveal redder fruits and flowers that carry through onto the palate. Big, chewy and rich yet with an almost magically light touch, with terrific concentration and energy to the highly concentrated flavors. A distinctly powerful style of Brunello,…

Looking Back to Look Forward: Back Vintage Brunello (Jan 2022)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille reminds me of walking into a bakery at daybreak, as all of the aromas of fresh breads and pastries slowly rise, blending in a mix of confectioner’s spices and, behind it all, a core of tart raspberry preserve that would be used for the center of the day’s Linzer…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Clos Fourtet is a dramatic, sweeping Saint-Émilion endowed with tremendous depth and unctuous intensity. Dark cherry, plum, cedar, tobacco and woodsmoke build as this rapturous, deeply textured wine shows off its allure. Silky, plush and wonderfully expressive, Clos Fourtet is fabulous in 2005. Bright saline notes, that are such a signature of Saint-Émilion’s…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep red-ruby. Reduced nose offers redcurrant, plum, coffee and smoke. Sweet, lush and creamy on entry, then chewy and tactile if a bit closed in the middle, with suggestions of darker fruits and mocha. Impressively broad on the back, showing a serious wave of finishing fruit, but the tannins are a bit sullen today….

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2006 Climens has a quintessential bouquet with a very slight adhesive scent that permeates the honeyed fruit, touches of white peach and orchard fruit. The palate is well balanced with a tangy, marmalade-tinged opening. Good depth, not as complex as the 2005 or 2009 and with quite a linear finish. Fine, but comparatively conservative….